Contact |
Home / Exhibits / You Can’t Spell Delicious Without Deli: A Look Behind the Counters of Vancouver’s Historic Jewish Delis

You Can’t Spell Delicious Without Deli

You Can’t Spell Delicious Without Deli:
A Look Behind the Counters of Vancouver’s Historic Jewish Delis

About the Exhibit

The earliest recollection of Jewish immigrant life in North America, deli cuisine has come to stand as a ubiquitous symbol for Jewish culture and community. The deli was never just about pastrami and rye, it was a third space for engaging with Jewish culture, beyond the synagogue and home. Throughout the continent, delis have historically reflected the culture of the community’s surroundings: shaped by immigration, geography, and changing neighbourhoods; adapting to local tastes while maintaining ties to the nostalgia of old-world traditions.

In Vancouver, the many Jewish delis that rose and fell throughout the city’s history each tell their own story. As the city’s Jewish population grew and changed, so did the appetite for local Jewish cuisine. From the first kosher butcher in Strathcona in the late 1800s to the present day, there has always been a local source for quality Jewish meats. Even as the Jewish community spread out beyond the city’s earlier downtown neighbourhoods, the deli counters followed suit and maintained the role of community gathering spaces—part food source, part social hub. These were more than just restaurants; they were places to hear the news, argue politics, mark milestones, and feel included in a greater social whole. Initially situated along the main strip of Granville Street, then following the other Jewish institutions as they crept up Oak Street and eventually eastward to Fraser Street, Vancouver’s Jewish delis are representative of a deep collective connection to tradition, culture, and community.

This exhibit tells the stories of just five individual delis, among the many that have existed throughout Vancouver’s history. Each deli’s story is so much more than just the history of a restaurant. These five unique establishments were ultimately defined by the families who ran them, the communities they served, and the role these spaces played in shaping Jewish culture and community in Vancouver.

Oscar’s Deli, 1943–1956

Oscar and Marjorie Blanck, 1943–1956

Oscar and Marjorie Blanck arrived in Vancouver in 1943 and took over a tiny mom-and-pop grocery and lunch counter at Burrard and Georgia. Oscar’s entrepreneurial instinct led them to gradually acquire the neighbouring storefronts until the entire one-storey building became Oscar’s Restaurant.

The unprecedented popularity and success of Oscar’s can be attributed to the owner’s innate business sense, eccentric charm, and love for celebrity and fanfare. He created a dining space with features previously unheard of in town, including angled mirrors installed on the ceilings to allow for better “people watching”. Other unusual features included a large open barbecue pit at the entrance where steaks were grilled in full view of customers, and walls lined with photographs of popular celebrities whom Oscar had personally greeted at their hotels or concert halls as they came through town. Among these photos were shots of Oscar posing alongside stars including Louis Armstrong, The Mills Brothers, Johnnie Ray, Frankie Laine, Sammy Davis Jr., Eddie Cantor, and Bing Crosby. According to local lore, the always unique Oscar also had a habit of wearing a different neck tie each night which he would remove and hand off to the first customer that walked through the door at midnight! These touches made Oscar’s Deli stand out in a city where most dining options were limited to a more standardized mid-century experience.

Oscar’s served hearty Canadian fare such as steaks, roast beef, and memorable salads, and it stayed open from early morning until late at night. Oscar managed the customer experience, greeting guests and cultivating relationships, while Marjorie handled bookkeeping, inventory, and daily operations behind the scenes.

The success of Oscar’s Deli was in part tied to its timing; the postwar years brought rapid growth to Vancouver, and the restaurant thrived by offering good food, a welcoming atmosphere, and a sense of novelty and glamour.

In 1954, Oscar tragically died in a plane crash over Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan on his way home from visiting family in the east; he was just 45 years old. After his death, Marjorie kept the restaurant running for a couple of years before selling the name and moving on in 1956. Though the building was later demolished, a plaque at Burrard and Georgia now marks the site of Oscar’s Restaurant. For a time, a replica Oscar statuette stood atop the restaurant building, a playful emblem of the lively, distinctive establishment that helped shape Vancouver’s dining history.

Rubin’s Deli, 1955–1981

Jack and Goldie Rubin · Nathan and Lorraine Chelin · Eddie and Marilyn Gaerber, 1955–1981

Jack and Goldie Rubin opened Rubin’s Deli at 974 Granville Street in 1955, at a time when Granville’s night life was just starting to take off. Known at that time for a good slice of anchovy pizza, it was also a true family-run establishment, serving classic Jewish dishes with aromas and flavours that drew crowds far beyond the regular Jewish clientele. With its prime location, high quality homemade recipes, extended hours and the Rubin family’s generous hospitality, the restaurant became a hot spot for a wide range of demographics, especially for many of the late-night revelers spilling out of the popular nightclubs and concert halls nearby.

In 1952, Jack and Goldie’s daughter Lorraine married Nathan Chelin of Toronto and they had three children before moving to Vancouver. Nathan’s primary business was as a manufacturers’ agent for Canadian clothing producers. When Nathan and Lorraine arrived in Vancouver with their family in 1959, Jack did some minor renovations to the deli and soon after joined into a partnership with his son-in-law, transforming it into a multi-generational family establishment. Nathan maintained his clothing agency alongside his work at the deli. In time, Nathan became the sole owner of the business after Jack passed away in 1969 and Goldie retired.

As Nathan and Lorraine’s family expanded, their four children became involved in various ways with the day-to-day tasks at the deli. Many Sundays were spent as a family stocking napkins, filling mustard/ketchup bottles, and enjoying time together at the restaurant. Each year on their birthdays, the Chelin children would be treated to a large deli party in the main dining area of the restaurant with all of their friends. Even their young friends looked forward to an evening of deli sandwiches, homemade cheesecake, the best chocolate cake, and soda.

Rubin’s Deli was beloved for its warmth and family-style atmosphere, and for the incredible homemade delicacies on the menu. Goldie’s cheesecake was a particular favourite, as were the home-made kosher style pickles, corned beef, and pastrami. Everything was made in-house except for the smoked meat, which was flown in from Montreal. The white fish was similarly flown in from Winnipeg, but its processing was done on site by the Rubin/Chelin families. The pickles were a take-out favourite and were sold to a number of restaurants in Vancouver for unattributed inclusion on their dinner plates.

Rubin’s was always family-owned, initially as a business venture between the Rubin and Chelin families, and then by the Chelins alongside Eddie and Marilyn Gaerber and their family. However, the enormous task of managing daily operations at the deli was accomplished with the help of a small village. From the loyal restaurant manager to the Portuguese family who worked together in the kitchen, and the many dedicated staff and relatives, daily operations at Rubin’s relied on a collaborative communal spirit. As they grew up, even the Chelin and Gaerber children took jobs at the deli, contributing however they could to the daily thrum of business.

Rubin’s Deli underwent two notable renovations. In 1970, the space was expanded to create a more formal dining area at the back of the building while the front section remained a café and retail space. In the mid 1970s, a patio area was added in front of the building to accommodate the growing popularity of the business.

In its heyday, Rubin’s Deli, would see the place packed to capacity most evenings—sometimes late into the night. Its prime location on Granville Street allowed Rubin’s a steady stream of customers at all hours, particularly at night after concerts or shows when the theatre crowds would spill into the streets. Rubin’s became a popular option for late-night snacks from the likes of the rich and famous to club goers capping off a night out at one of the nearby clubs or theatres like The Cave Supper Club, The Orpheum or The Commodore. It also became a lunchtime favourite for businessmen downtown.

Business from the late-night crowds was impactful to the bottom line, such that Jack and Nathan had a policy of keeping the restaurant open as long as there were still customers—even staying open as late as 3:00 am! Nevertheless, the deli always opened bright and early the next morning to prepare for the lunch hour rush. Many relied on Rubin’s as a staple for quality food with authentic old country flavours. At Rubin’s, nostalgia and comfort mixed with the vibrance and excitement of a changing city. By 1981, Nathan Chelin and Eddie Gaerber had decided it was time to retire from the restaurant business and move on to other pursuits. After more than 20 years, the business was sold to Phil Zukerman of Richmond, widely known as “Phat Phil.” The building was later sold to Dave Boxer, who reopened another restaurant in the building under the name “Grazeland”.

Max’s Deli, 1943–Present

Max and Annie Prosterman, 1943–1949

Max’s deli was originally founded by Max and Annie Prosterman in 1949. The Prostermans immigrated to Canada in the late 1880s, originally landing in Regina, then moving to Moose Jaw, and finally settling in Vancouver in 1942. They moved to Vancouver to be closer to their adult children, one of whom had opened a small restaurant in Vancouver’s downtown core. At first, Max went to work making sandwiches in the back of his son’s store, and then branched out to open his own sandwich spot on Robson Street near Burrard, called The Busy Spot. The Busy Spot was ultimately unsuccessful, and Max decided to go back to his roots to develop a restaurant that sold food with a cultural history he was more familiar with. He purchased a space near Oak and 16th Avenue and opened the first official Jewish deli in Vancouver, naming it (appropriately) “Max’s Deli”. In addition to deli meats, Max would personally prepare the corned beef, pickles, and other Jewish delicacies that delighted customers and solidified Max’s Deli as a local staple for authentic Jewish food. When Max Prosterman passed away in 1949, his daughter and son-in-law ran the business briefly before selling it to a family friend, David “Dave” Shafran.

Dave Shafran, 1949–1975

Dave Shafran was a Holocaust survivor who had found his way to Vancouver in 1949 alongside his good friend Harvey Mills (aka Chaim Milchman). The two had survived the camps together and jointly applied for Canadian asylum through an immigrant aide agency in the late 1940s. The organization was offering Canadian citizenship to refugees who were skilled tailors. While Chaim was in fact a tailor by trade, Dave did not know more than the basics of how to sew on a button. Nevertheless, he was able to convince the examining officials that he was adequately trained as a tailor (in addition to several other skills—just in case!). The pair were sent to Vancouver, where they immediately opened a small tailor shop together at Granville and 15th Avenue.

In 1949, Shafran sold his share of the business to Mills and branched out on his own. When Max Prosterman died suddenly in 1949, and his family was unable to successfully continue running the business, Dave reached out to the family about buying the deli. He purchased the restaurant from them in 1949 for $2000. Under Dave’s ownership, the business flourished. He eventually expanded into another four locations throughout Vancouver, each with a different name.

Zev Shafran, 1975–1981

When Dave retired in 1975, his son, Zev Shafran, took over the business. Zev moved the restaurant to a larger location across the street at 3105 Oak Street, where it remains to this day. Zev Shafran ran the Max’s Deli empire until 1981, when he sold it to Bruce Redpath and moved on to pursue other business interests.

Bruce Redpath and David Greeley, 1981–Present

The Max’s establishment, now known as “Max’s Bakery and Delicatessen” is still operational in its 3105 Oak Street location. Max’s is now run by Bruce Redpath and David Greeley, and maintains its reputation as one of Vancouver’s most iconic and historic local eateries.

Kaplan’s Deli, 1967–2014

Ida and Abrasha Kaplan, 1967–1981

Kaplan’s deli was a family-run business, founded by Ida and Abrasha Kaplan in Vancouver in 1962. Ida was born in Vilna, Poland in 1921. Ida’s father was a successful owner of an established slaughterhouse, and her youth was filled with the flavours of cholent, kishka and veal brisket that would come to define her skills in later years. Before owning the deli, Ida did not cook. She recalled at times seeing steam coming out of her mother’s bubbling pots, and thinking that it was the steam doing the cooking! Nevertheless, the traditional flavours and smells of Jewish cuisine were a core part of Ida’s upbringing. Through the helpful guidance of friends and family, she eventually became renowned in the Vancouver Jewish community for her excellent cooking skills and knack for creating the perfect “yiddishe tum” (Jewish flavour).

Ida had miraculously survived the Holocaust after internment in multiple concentration camps and six months spent in hiding. Upon returning to Vilna after the war, Ida met and eventually married Abrasha Krizowski. Together, the couple searched for surviving family members in Vilna, but found none. Seeking a fresh start, the newlyweds found their way to a new life in Vancouver, BC through the assistance of a Refugee Aide Agency. Upon arrival in Canada, they changed their last name from Krizowski to Kaplan and began anew. For the first four and half years in Vancouver, Ida, Abrasha, and Sherie (their eldest daughter) lived with Abrasha’s brother, Ben, and his wife, Rose. It was there that Ida first learned to cook. Ben and Rose’s niece, Polly, was a frequent visitor to the shared home, and she played an instrumental role in teaching Ida how to cook.

Ida’s first job in Canada was working at Lennie’s Grill, owned by Polly’s husband, Barney Wosk. After Lennie’s Grill she worked at the Triangle Café and Moishe’s Deli. Her main jobs were washing dishes and baking. According to Ida, this is where she learned to make the cinnamon buns that would eventually become a widespread favourite within Vancouver’s Jewish community.

In the early 60’s, Abrasha was let go from his job at the North West Sack Company and the ambitious Ida had to look for ways to support the family. A good friend, Kiva Katznelson, offered to loan them money to buy a business. Meanwhile the Finkelsteins, a local Jewish family, were looking to sell their restaurant at Oak and 41st called The Pheasant Delicatessen. With a loan from the Katznelsons and additional help from a former colleague of Abrasha’s, they were able to buy The Pheasant Delicatessen in March 1962. Mrs. Finklestein assured them she would teach them the business and how to cook deli foods. Ida remembers Helen Finklestein’s instruction lasted only a few days, and then she was left on her own. Ida learned the recipes and then experimented until the flavours matched the memory of those from her own mother’s kitchen. Once perfected, Ida knew she was ready to take on the kitchen of a fully operational delicatessen.

Ida and Abrasha reopened the Finklestein’s former “Pheasant Deli” as “The Pheasant Sandwich Bar” in 1963 at Oak and 41st Avenue. The food was prepared at the original Cambie Street location, then schlepped to Oak Street. Abrasha worked at the Cambie store and Ida was in charge of the Oak Street location, both assisted by various family members, making it a true family affair. In October 1967, they moved the restaurant a few doors south. Ben Wosk, the owner of the building, was very accommodating and worked with architects for the store to have a larger kitchen with room for two large refrigerated coolers. Though originally the name Pheasant stuck, the deli on Oak Street became known colloquially as simply “Kaplans”—and so the name was eventually changed officially to Kaplan’s Delicatessen.

The showcases at Kaplan’s were always packed with traditional Jewish foods, from salmon cheeks to Winnipeg goldeye, kishke to putscha, pastrami to corned beef, and komish to blintzes. And every dish reflected Ida’s innate sense of the authentic “yiddishe tum” (Jewish flavours). Due to its central location and high quality of authentic Jewish food, Kaplan’s Deli grew to become a staple establishment for Jewish and non-Jewish audiences alike. It was more than just a deli, it played the role of social hub, gathering space, and source of deep nostalgia for Jewish immigrants dreaming of flavours from their own mothers’ kitchens.

Serge Haber, 1981–2000

In 1981, Kaplan’s Delicatessen and Restaurant was sold to Serge Haber. Haber came to Vancouver from Montreal in December 1978 on a contract with a clothing company. When that ended, he consulted Cantor Murray Nixon of Beth Israel Synagogue about his next steps. The cantor suggested he speak with the kosher butcher in town, who was trying to sell his business. When that fell through, Haber was referred to Ida Kaplan. At the time, Ida was single-handedly running Kaplan’s Deli as well as the catering business on the side. Her husband, Abrasha, was 15 years older than her and could no longer help in the restaurant, so Ida was looking to sell the business.

“I went right up to see Mrs. Kaplan and, after half an hour of discussion, maybe a little bit more, I said I was interested but I [have to] check with the bank downstairs. Give me an hour to make up my mind…. I went downstairs and I spoke to the manager of the Bank of Montreal that Kaplan’s Deli was dealing with and I was told very emphatically, ‘It’s a very good business…’. So, I went back upstairs and I told Mrs. Kaplan, ‘Yes, I am going to get the business.’ And that was the deal.”

When Haber’s wife threatened to divorce him upon hearing the news of his rash business decision, he reassured her,

“I didn’t know very much about textiles when I got into the field and [found] myself with the most intelligent people in the textile business and I succeeded and there is no reason for me not to succeed because I will learn.”

Haber’s initial goal was to earn employees’ trust and prove he could run the business. He spent six tough months learning the ropes and tasting every dish, relying on his own palate and innate knowledge of his customers to determine the best food items to sell. Under his management, Haber made sure the home-made quality of the food served at Kaplan’s was maintained, even physically purchasing, brining, and preserving his own pickles to sell in the store.

Kaplan’s was comprised of both the restaurant and the delicatessen, where people came in to buy things like pickles, pastries, and soup mixes. Haber was intent on delivering an authentic deli experience to his customers, without compromising quality or freshness.

“Everything was bought daily, was fresh and it was done in the store in the same way that Ida Kaplan or my wife would have prepared it at home…. What I was trying to do was imitate—both in the look and the types of service, and the taste—a genuine Montreal deli that are famous for serving smoked meat… and a good quality food in the restaurant.”

While not a kosher restaurant, Kaplan’s did carry an ample selection of kosher products, as well seasonal specialty items for Jewish holidays. Haber made sure to continue certain traditions established by the Kaplans, including the practice of brining and pickling his own in-house pickles.

“I would have kept [the deli] much longer but I was making my own pickles every year and I had to handle the cases of pickles, taking them to Richmond to storage then bringing them in small quantities, or what we needed for weekly or daily use, and it was just too much for me. I was getting older. I was 73 years old when I gave up Kaplan’s.”

In 2000, Haber sold the deli to Marshall Cramer, who continued to steward the success and tradition of Kaplan’s deli for another decade and a half.

Marshall Cramer, 2000–2014

As Serge and his wife aged, the physical labour of running the business was becoming too difficult, and the changing demands of the industry were difficult to meet. It took some time to sell the business, but it was eventually sold in 2000 to Marshall Cramer, who changed the name to Kaplan’s Star Deli. Cramer ran the business for over a decade before selling it again in 2013. The establishment went out of business just a year after that sale.

Every so often, Ida Kaplan would go into Kaplan’s Star Deli to give Marshall advice, consult on menu items, and offer helpful suggestions. She even volunteered to personally teach his cook how to make certain dishes and insisted on tasting everything to assure it met her standards in both quality and taste.

Despite the unceremonious end to the multi-family, decades-long history of Kaplan’s Deli, the soul of the Jewish deli remained in its location at 41st and Oak. Soon after the shuttering of Kaplan’s, the nearby Omnitsky’s Deli on Cambie Street moved into the original Kaplan’s location. Omnitsky’s continued to operate in that location until 2024, when the business was moved to Fraser Street.

Omnitsky’s Deli, Early 1900s–Present

Louis Omnitsky · William Omnitsky, Early 1900s–1983

Omnitsky’s Kosher Delicatessen was originally established in Winnipeg in the early 1900s by Louis Omnitsky. Omnitsky was a kosher butcher in a rapidly expanding Jewish immigrant community with increasing demand for familiar old-world flavours. In the mid-20th century, Louis’ son William took over the business from his father and continued to run it successfully until 1978 when it was sold to a graduate student by the name of Efrem “Eppy” Rappaport.

Efrem “Eppy” Rappaport, 1983–2024

Eppy’s family had moved to Winnipeg from San Diego in 1967, attracted by the strong Jewish community and its well-established resources. In 1978, Eppy was midway through a master’s degree in sociology when he decided to take a semester off. That semester off turned into an unexpected and serendipitous change of course for Eppy’s career. Mr. William Omnitsky, the original owner of the deli, was ready to retire and looking for someone to take over his business. Eppy’s father heard about this, and suggested to his son that he visit Mr. Omnitsky. Eppy began working with Mr. Omnitsky right away, and did not return to his schooling. Instead, he purchased the business in 1983 and became the new owner of Omnitsky’s deli. In the span of just four years, Eppy had gone from being a sociology student to a business owner, butcher, and steward of an over 70-year-old legacy.

In 1997, Eppy relocated the business to Vancouver and opened Omnitsky’s Kosher Delicatessen on Cambie Street. Vancouver’s Jewish population was growing, and although the city had a few staple kosher options, there was room—and need—for a full-service butcher and delicatessen. Eppy brought with him the recipes, skills, and standards he had inherited in Winnipeg, but adapted them to the West Coast environment. The Vancouver shop quickly developed into more than a butcher counter. It became a deli, a grocery, and a small community hub where people could order lunch, chat with the staff, and indulge themselves with cuisine that satisfied cravings for deep culinary tradition.

Over the years, Omnitsky’s built a reputation for its soups, sandwiches, smoked meat, house-made sausages, and range of kosher groceries. Many customers relied on it for Shabbat and holiday meals; others simply loved the food and atmosphere. People routinely travelled from across the Lower Mainland—and sometimes from Vancouver Island and Seattle—because there were products Omnitsky’s carried or produced that they couldn’t find anywhere else. Even as Jewish families began moving increasingly further from the Oakridge area, the small deli on Cambie Street maintained its role as a community touchpoint for culture and connection.

In 2014, changing city zoning and redevelopment plans necessitated a move out of the space Cambie Street and 43rd Avenue. The deli was moved a few blocks west to 5775 Oak Street, taking over the former Kaplan’s Deli space. The new location allowed for expanded seating, an improved retail area, and a stronger presence in a neighbourhood long associated with Jewish life. The dining area was renovated to accommodate its continued status as a popular lunch spot, a holdover from Kaplan’s reputation. Under Eppy’s careful guidance, Omnitsky’s seamlessly transitioned into the role of being the place that out-of-town guests were brought for a bowl of matzah ball soup, and the go-to spot for picking up brisket for Passover. The Oak Street deli balanced old-world comfort with West Coast accessibility, and it cemented Omnitsky’s place in the local culinary landscape.

The deli continued to operate there for a decade, integrating itself into the daily routines of its customers. It was not only a kosher facility but also a recognizable Vancouver landmark — one of the last delis of its kind in the city, and part of a broader, slowly fading lineage of traditional Jewish delis across North America.

By 2024, however, Omnitsky’s faced pressures familiar to many small businesses in Vancouver: redevelopment, rising costs, and shifting commercial landscapes. The Oak Street site was slated for renewal, and the deli closed its doors on Oak Street in October 2024. At the same time, a major internal transition was underway. After more than forty years in the business, Eppy Rappaport decided to retire. He posted ads in the paper announcing that his business was for sale, and urging the community to step up and steward the historic tradition of Omnitsky’s Deli.

The call was answered by a local community member, Richard Woods.

Richard Woods, 2024–Present

Richard Woods stepped in to take over the business in 2024 with a commitment to preserving the heart and soul of the Omnitsky’s name while modernizing it to meet the needs of Vancouver’s contemporary Jewish community. With the space on Oak Street no longer available, Woods purchased a newly built space at 3435 Fraser Street, near Kingsway. Housing patterns had changed significantly in the past decades, and many Jewish families were now moving eastward toward the Fraserhood area. The location on Fraser Street was ideally situated to attract both Jewish and non-Jewish clientele.

Omnitsky’s continues to thrive at its Fraser Street location as a landmark of Jewish continuity and cultural pride in a rapidly changing city. The establishment continues to stand as a beacon of tradition, while continuing to adapt as necessary to meet contemporary needs. From its 1910 beginnings in Winnipeg to its present-day transformation in Vancouver, the deli has remained part of the cultural and culinary fabric of Jewish communities on both sides of the Rockies. Its future chapters will build on this long history, shaped by new leadership but still anchored in the traditions that have carried the Omnitsky’s name for more than 115 years.

We Want to Know More!

This exhibit features a selection of five of the many Jewish delis that have operated throughout Vancouver’s rich Jewish history. In developing this exhibit, we discovered fragments of information from several other historic delis that once captivated the appetites and social needs of the city. We are looking for more information on the establishments listed below to create a more comprehensive history of local Jewish delis and expand this exhibit.

Leon’s Kosher
Lindy’s Fine Foods
Moishe’s Deli
Barer’s Deli
Pheasant Deli
Triangle Café

If you have any information to contribute about the delis listed above (or any others we have not yet discovered!) please send a detailed email to programs@jewishmuseum.ca or call the JMABC office at 604-257-5199.

Thank You

The JMABC extends immense gratitude to those whose essential contributions and guidance have helped make this exhibit possible:

Adrienne, Brian and Danny Chelin
Odie Kaplan
Eppy Rappaport
Richard Woods

JMABC Staff

Elana Wenner
Alysa Routtenberg
Marcy Babins
Eli Klasner
Ephrem King

Omnitsky Kosher
Jewish Federation of Greater Vancouver
Ronald S. Roadburg Foundation

All exhibit content was sourced from the deli owners and their descendants via archival oral histories, newspaper articles, written memoirs, and other personal collections.